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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.